Lake Eyasi is a shallow, alkaline lake in a Rift Valley trough, with the Ngorongoro Highlands to the north and north-west and the Mbulu Highlands to the east. People don't come here for game drives. They come to meet the communities who live around it: the Hadzabe, who hunt and gather, and the Datoga, who herd livestock and include a group of blacksmiths.
What is the lake like?
It depends on the rain. The Key Biodiversity Areas factsheet describes a lake about 80 km long, at roughly 1,030 m, that shrinks to a dry soda crust in years of low rainfall. When there's water it holds large numbers of waterbirds, especially greater and lesser flamingos, along with yellow-billed storks and African spoonbills. Most of the basin has no formal protection, and the same factsheet lists deforestation, overgrazing and farming as pressures.
How is it different from the rest of the northern circuit?
Most northern parks are about wildlife. Eyasi is about people. Anthropologist Haruna Yatsuka notes that visitors have come to Mang'ola, near the lake, since the 1990s to watch birds and to meet the Hadza, and that it's within easy reach of Ngorongoro and the Serengeti. Come for the communities and the birds, not for big game.
Who are the Hadzabe?
The Hadza, also called Hadzabe, have lived around Lake Eyasi for thousands of years, according to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority (NCAA). Researchers on a University of Sheffield project put the number who identify as Hadza at about 1,000, across some 4,000 km² around the lake. About 300 live nomadically and get most of their food by hunting and gathering. The rest live in more settled camps near villages and add bought food to what they forage.
Their language, Hadzane, uses click consonants and is often classed as a language isolate. Most Hadza also speak Swahili. Colonial and later government attempts to settle them, in 1927, 1939, 1965 and the mid-1970s, all failed, and people went back to the bush. The NCAA notes that they are the only hunter-gatherers in Tanzania still allowed to hunt wild animals for food.
Who are the Datoga?
The Datoga are Nilotic pastoralists. The NCAA records that they settled in the southern Lake Eyasi basin about two centuries ago. There are two groups: herders who keep cattle, goats, sheep and donkeys, and blacksmith families who make arrowheads, knives, spears and jewellery. The Hadzabe are important trading partners for the smiths.
What does a visit to a Hadza camp involve?
Anthropologist Haruna Yatsuka, writing in 2018, describes how it usually works. The Lake Eyasi Cultural Tourism Programme, a government-registered office set up in Mang'ola in 2011, acts as the gateway. Visitors arrive early with one of its registered local guides, who interprets. You might watch fire being made with sticks, then follow the men on a hunt for two or three hours.
Set your expectations honestly. Yatsuka found that most hunts with tourists are for small animals such as birds and squirrels. The same study found that many Hadza tire of the steady flow of visitors and move away for a while. You're a guest in someone's working day, so follow your guide's lead.
When should you go?
There's no official seasonal guide for Eyasi. For the nearby northern parks, TANAPA calls June to October the peak dry season. The lake itself can dry to a soda crust when the rains are poor, so the birdlife depends on how wet the year has been.
How does our trip include Lake Eyasi?
One of our published trips goes here, the 10-Day Active Safari. On day eight you spend the morning in Ngorongoro Crater, have a picnic lunch and drive down to the lake in the afternoon. There, Datoga smiths show how they turn iron into tools and ornaments. Day nine starts early with a Hadzabe group, and joining the hunt with a bow and arrow is up to you. Afterwards you drive back to Arusha, stopping for lunch at Mto wa Mbu.
If you'd like Eyasi on a different route, tell us on plan your trip.